Gas Grill Problem

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Before you go spending money on a new regulator give this a shot. It is weird but it worked for me.

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37 COMMENTS

  1. Remember to SHUT OFF the burner controls AFTER you're finished grilling. This will eliminate the headache to begin with. THEN shut off the tank valve. Sometimes a reset can be simpler. Turn off the open valve(s); turn off the tank valve; unscrew the regulator from the tank; reinstall it on the tank; wait a minute or so and then start everything up again.

  2. Yes Ricky. That is a safety device. You can read about it in the instructions or sometimes a yellow tag on the regulator hose. It's a free flow gas prevention device. It senses the rapid flow of gas and immediately throttles the gas flow. It is a safety device in case the gas hose after the regulator gets cut or broken, so you won't have wide open gas flow. My instructions explain (Weber) that if you activate the safety device, the BBQ will only heat to 225 degrees. So if you are preheating your grill and see it's only at 225, shut off the tank valve and open the burner valves to relieve the pressure. To be extra sure, remove the regulator from the tank and then replace. This will ensure that the pressure is relieved. Now, as you said, open the tank valve DEAD slow. Especially a newly refilled tank. USE TWO HANDS on top of the valve to keep it from snapping open. Just like you do for oxy-acetylene tanks so you don't snap the gauges with a pressure blast. Open them as slow as molasses in the winter time. Once you get it 1/4 to 1/2 turn open, you can open it all the way.

  3. I’m currently designing a compact portable gas grill for my internship and am hoping if I can ask for your help. I’m making a 2 lp gas burner BBQ. I built the manifold, the BBQ module and cover but everything else are universal replacement parts: tube burner, valve, igniter kit, hose, regulator. The BBQ module’s dimension is 16” x 16” x 2.5” and it has two 16-1/5" X 1" Stainless Steel Tube Burner. I was using a replacement valve with #53 orifice size but due the depth restriction of the BBQ module I replaced the brass spud with #69 orifice size to get much smaller flame size. However, the current issue that I’m experiencing is when I turn the valve to high or low the flame size hardly changes. Thank you in advance for your help!

  4. This has worked for me in the past but for the life of me I can't get it to work on my most recent weber. When it's warm out I don't have any issues but when it's below about 40*F I can't grill. Unfortunately I can't check the regulator or manifold for leaks because it's below freezing out now. Any other tips?

  5. Apparently by doing this you are resetting the regulator. If you don't turn off the burners in the "correct" order (and nobody seems to know exactly what that is. . . ), the regulator "locks up." This process resets it. It definitely works!

  6. Thank you, that was amazing, I have wasted so much time trying to get this problem fixed and ruined the steak last week as I had to broil it in the Oven. YES it was Me that turned the gas off at the tank! oops wont be doing that again.

  7. I absolutely can not believe this worked. Thank you so much for saving me the aggravation of changing out parts as that was the next step I was going to take. Haven't been able to cook a steak in months. Tried your instructions and it instantly worked the very first time. Thanks 👍

  8. It worked – thank you! We followed the instructions on the Weber site to no avail, replaced the regulator and no luck. Found your tip and took one last shot. Our 14 year old Silver C lives on!

  9. Thanks! we had the same problem. My husband was ready to disassemble the whole grill. While I was searching for the problem on the web, your video came up on the search. I worked like a charm. My hubby just kept saying, (YAAAH!!!)

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